Watch the MAN catwalk show for Autumn Winter 2014 at London Collections Men featuring collections from Craig Green, Bobby Abley and Alan Taylor.
MAN: BOBBY ABLEY, ALAN TAYLOR & CRAIG GREEN
The joint initiative TOPMAN and Fashion East returns to showcase the most talented menswear designers. Following SS 2014’s stellar line-up, Craig Green, Bobby Abley and Alan Taylor return to the MAN catwalk for AW 2014. This marks Craig Green’s third and final season and both Bobby Ably and Alan Taylor’s second. These designers are following in the footsteps of the likes of J.W Anderson, Christopher Shannon, Shaun Samson and James Long, all of whom launched their brands through MAN.
1. ALAN TAYLOR
After graduating from Dublin’s National College of Art and Design in 2010, and gaining experience with Alexander Mcqueen, Agi & Sam and Simone Rocha, Alan started his label in 2011.This is his second season showing with MAN. In 2013 he was selected as part of the Bright Young Things showcase at Selfridges.
Alan is known for his attention to detail and his ‘fourth dimension’ approach to tailoring, exploring how the garments fall on the form of the body. He works in collaboration with a traditional Irish mill to create bespoke woven fabrics comprising of luxury silk and tweed.
The collection’s two fundamental inspirations are firstly 90s punk group ‘The Talking Heads’ and secondly from Matisse’s collage technique, a unique combination. Alan plays with off-balance proportions, graphic cut-outs and colourful hand-painted splatters.
Blazers and coats with elongated lapels, over-oversized trousers, asymmetrical hemlines and unexpected slits. Heavy coats, fisherman knits and suits with random prints. Our favourite piece was an ankle-length black tweed coat woven with silvery threads.
Shades range from black to off-white, with touches of navy, grey, lime and purple with highlights of neon yellow and metallic green.
Day glo bags and metallic Green gloves.
2. BOBBY ABLEY
Bobby is originally from Scarborough, and studied at the Ravensbourne College of Design and Communication. He has previously worked for Rankin, Alexander McQueen and Jeremy Scott.
His unmistakable style of storytelling is inspired in cartoons, with his models looking like living toys.
This season the ‘Phantom Manor’ collection is inspired by scary stories about ghosts, monsters, ghouls and crows, all of them mixed with cartoon references such as Mickey Mouse and Maleficient within the prints and hats. Abley shows us a darker Disney World.
All the models wore a silver mouth contraption, contorting their faces into frozen ‘screams’.
A dark colour palette is animated with ‘Halloween’ glow-in-the-dark details, and chiffon and printed organza are layered on the edges of his shorts and shirts, frayed in a ghostly fashion. Brains, barbed wire and crows provide graphic prints along with the Bobby Abley Bear, featured on oversized wool jackets and neoprene coats. Abley shows us some pyjama-esque pieces, and furry shorts and mohair jumpers remind us of the monster under the bed.
Light greys, bubblegum pink, Black and White.
Backpacks, combat boots, hats with Mickey Mouse ears and Maleficient horns.
This season Bobby Abley collaborates with Piers Atkinson on a range of hats in homage to Maleficent – the iconic antagonist from Disney’s ‘Sleeping Beauty’ – and with Alan Crocetti for the second season on custom jewellery featuring silver bullets (the only way to slay a werewolf!)
The Unconventional, London
3. CRAIG GREEN
Native Londoner, Craig Green, completed a BA Fashion Hons (Print) and MA Fashion at Central Saint Martins. His first scheduled collection was presented as part of Topman and Fashion East’s MAN initiative at London Collections: Men for autumn/winter 2013. He has been nominated for the British Fashion Awards’ 2013 Emerging Menswear Talent accolade alongside MAN alumni Agi & Sam and Christopher Shannon.
Craig is well known for his conceptual and sculptural design whilst remaining wearable. His ideal client is someone who appreciates the craft of handmade finished garments.
Based in the idea of Persian rugs, Craig has created an old and romantic concept full of beautiful hand painted prints, transforming the models into canvases whilst the inclusion of capes harkens back to the ceremonial costume of ancient Japanese Warriors.
Flowing silhouettes of oversized long coats, skirts and robes created with robust fabrics like felt, recycled Alcantara and roughly panelled knits offer a feeling of understated opulence.
Water-colours, black ink, terracottas, mustards and navy blue.
Leather harnesses and back-packs (or a combination worn across the body), and back-packs worn as a hand bags.
Dover Street market, Other Shop